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Credit card fraud is a fast increasing crime in the world. International Credit Card holders are mostly the victims of this unauthorized access to their accounts. Let’s take a closer look of the problems faced by international credit cards.

1. Repetitive use of credit card numbers. After a credit card number has been used and disregarded, say cancelled, credit card companies would reissue the same number to other cardholders. The personal identification numbers (PIN) is changed as well as the credit cardholder’s personal information. But it still bears the same credit card number.

2. Low standards when it comes to the use of cards by the participating merchants. This is a common problem encountered by international credit cardholders. Employees of the participating merchants have the full access to the account number as well as the security number of the card.

3. Account Statements given out by credit card companies contains less information about the participating merchant. It does not include relevant information about the vendor that charged any transaction on the credit card.

4. Unreliable blocking functions. Once a card loss is reported, it will still take months for the credit card companies to block the transactions being made through the stolen or lost credit card.

5. Lack of validation software. Participating vendors should have better validation software installed on their computer system.

6. Consumer unfriendly policies on fraud management. The policies on the present fraud management take the blame on the cardholders though not directly stipulated. This means that the policies on the fraud management of international credit card companies protect not the consumers but the company.

7. Lax standards on investigation about fraudulent transactions. This is the sad part for the victims of fraud through their credit cards. Getting the suspects charged though proven guilty of fraud seems to take on slowly.

8. Credit card fraud is usually committed through online transactions. This means that credit cardholders are not protected with the authorized or unauthorized use of their cards on purchases or services paid online.

9. Most of the companies that typically appear on charges are those associated with pornography industry. These companies are the ones that accept transactions even without verifying the cardholder’s information.

10. Most of the banks’ system is not compatible with other international credit card companies for the e-commerce. This is a potential weakness that would mean loss of clients so they would prefer to keep quiet about it.

David Riewe is a Publisher and Online Marketer. Visit his Credit Resources Blog Below: www.push-button-online-income.com/creditcards/

Every time you apply for any type of loan or you are issued credit or you pay any bill, it becomes a part of the equation that determines your credit rating.

The primary or big three credit agencies are: Experian, Equifax and Trans Union. The credit score they determine is what all major lenders and most companies use when deciding if they will lend you money or issue you credit and the terms that credit will have.

Your Credit Rating - What Does It Include?
All of your current debts are included when determining your credit rating. Basically, your credit rating is a history of all your debts, with special emphasis placed on anything that has gone wrong.

A few of the primary factors that determine your overall rating include: Late Payments - The number of times you’ve been 30, 60, 90 or more than 120 days late on any payment. This could include rent, mortgage, phone bills or any type of credit card. Defaulting (never paying) on a debt will clearly hurt your credit rating for a period of time. In some instances, up to 7 years but each company issuing credit has their own guidelines and in many cases it will cause a negative impact for 2 - 3 years. Owing a high percentage compared to your credit limit also brings down your credit score. For example: If you owe $10,000 on your credit cards you are much better off to owe $3,000 on two different cards with a credit limit of $5,000 each and 4,000 on another card with a credit limit of $6,000 than to owe the entire $10,000 on one card with a credit limit of $10,000.

It is also worth considering that the credit report of anyone you live with or more precisely anyone with whom you share a debt obligation with is also linked to your report and if they default or have a late payment, it will reflect on your credit score. This happens with when couples get divorced and one party decides to stop making payments.

What is FICO?
The standard method for expressing your credit rating is called FICO. In a nutshell, it’s an acronym for expressing your credit worthiness with a number. FICO was named after the Fair Isaac Corporation, who invented it.

One common misconception about credit score is that every time your credit is pulled is that it hurts your credit score. This is how it works.

If it’s pulled by a lender then it doesn’t hurt your score because it’s assumed they would only be pulling it to determine if you qualify for a mortgage. On the other hand, if you continually apply for department store credit cards or car loans or similar types of credit and those types companies pull it then it can hurt your credit score, if it’s pulled too many times in a short period of time. The exact number of times it can be pulled in a particular time frame before it hurts your score is an industry secret but if you use common sense and don’t over apply then you should be ok.

Why Your Credit Rating is So Important
Any time you get turned down for a any type of loan, chances are that it was because of your credit rating. Companies that are considering giving you a loan rely almost exclusively on this rating when making the decision whether or not to issue you credit. Regardless, the bottom line is this. In virtually all cases, the lower your credit score the higher the interest rate.

Your credit score directly determines the credit terms you’ll receive for any type of loan - mortgage, car, credit cards, etc. And remember, all bills affect your credit rating so if you don’t pay your phone bill or your utilities or your rent on time it will have an effect on the terms you receive or even if you qualify for a mortgage or car loan. So get into the habit or paying your bills on time and get a solid credit rating because the amount of money you’ll save over your lifetime in interest charges will be huge.

Free Credit Reports
One of latest trends in credit reporting is for companies to offer individuals a free credit report. In and of itself, there’s nothing wrong with this but I would like to point out a vital point that you need to be aware of.

I mentioned earlier that there are 3 primary credit agencies that lenders rely on looking at your credit. The key factor here is three and that’s where you can run into trouble when you get your Free Credit Report. When you get a Free Credit Report you will only be getting the results from one of the primary credit agencies and this can misleading.

The reason it’s misleading is because virtually ALL lenders will pull what’s called a tri-merge credit report when you apply for a loan. They do this in order to get the full picture of your credit history. Then they throw out the high and the low score and use the middle score to determine your credit rating.

When you get your Free Credit Report you will only be given a credit report pulled from one of the agencies and so you have a pretty good chance of being misled as to what your actually credit score is. Unless, the credit agency that was used just happened to be the one with the middle credit score you won’t have your ‘true’ credit score. And the reason this matters is because the difference between the three scores can be significant. So be wary of single agency credit reports and when applying for a loan always ask for your middle credit score because that’s the only one that really counts.

Kevin Erickson is a contributing writer for: www.debtmgmtresources.com and www.aneyeondebt.com and www.debtmergeresources.com. This article may be reproduced only in its entirety.

Around £6billion a year is lost due to credit card users not understanding how their credit card works. Too many people are dazzled by the latest deals offered by credit card companies and end up paying more than they should, simply because of a lack of any real understanding on how the introductory deal works that they took advantage of.

Millions of us have taken advantage of these offers, which include low promotional rates and the favourite one for the credit card issuers (until it came back to haunt them) the 0% deals on balance transfers or on both purchases and balance transfers, but recent research has revealed that those of us who do not understand the workings of these deals, could be costing ourselves £200 extra in interest payments.

Why am I getting charged interest?

The main reason for this is that most credit card companies always put the payments that you make towards the cheapest debt first and with many making use of the 0% balance transfer deals. When you switch your existing debt from one lender to another to save on interest repayments, the lender will pay the balance transfer deal first, as this is the debt that is carrying the lowest interest rate and any new purchases made on the card will mount up. All new purchases made are charged at the standard APR.

How does this happen?

Lets give you an example of this to make it a little clearer, for talking sake say you have a debt of £3,500 on your credit card and it consists of a balance you have transferred from another credit card company to the value of £2,000, you have made new purchases of £1,000, using the card in the standard way and withdrew cash from ATM’s to the tune of £500, with you paying back your card the money will be put towards the balance transfer first and the new purchases and cash withdrawals will be taking on the interest charges right away, which could leave you paying £200 more in interest repayments.

Earlier in the article I said that most credit card companies work this way, which means there are some that do not, most notably included in those who do not are Nationwide and the HSBC Black card, who revert to paying the most expensive debt first, leaving the lower APR debt unpaid until such a time as when the more expensive debt is cleared, which is a fairer and less sneakier way of attributing someone’s payments to their debts, where as the others are only taking away the goodness of the deal that they have offered you in the first place, by giving you in one hand and taking it away from the other.

What can I do to stop paying excess interest?

When dealing with these deals read the small print, as it always makes sense of where you stand when it comes to your finances, as knowing where you are in terms of your repayments will save you the cash that you were trying to save in the first place, though always having a clear balance at the end of each month is always the ideal scenario, but as we all know life and our finances are not always that simple.

Some Contacts
Nationwide http://www.nationwide.co.uk
HSBC http://www.hsbc.co.uk
Credit Card Advice http://www.creditcards-gb.co.uk

Peter Kenny has been writing financial articles for the last five years and
offers great advice on credit cards and loans. More information can be found
at www.creditcards-gb.co.uk
and www.moneywize.co.uk

The credit card market is seeing a boom with numerous market players. It has created a kind of choice chaos or rather a clutter. It is important to differentiate between a good and a bad market offer. We all have discussed enough about the good and best credit card offers but it is equally important to know about the poor credit card offers, and what to beware of.

It is important to check the credentials of a credit card company before signing up for any offer since a number of fraudulent credit card companies have also sprung up along with the equal numbers of genuine ones. There is never a credit card offer that is perfect. Each has its pros and cons. Normally, if it sounds too good to be true, then it is a sure sign of being a credit card offer for someone with an adverse credit history. Offers like these can simply rip off your pocket and leave you with peanuts. They make tall claims to lure customers but if you read between the lines there is always a trap clause that takes the air out of the claim.

However, desperate requirement you might have of a credit do not fall into the trap of these jazzy claims. They might claim to give you low APR and high credit limit even with your bad credit history. Now this is obviously unbelievable. More unbelievable means more unreliable.

Then there could be credit card offers that are ridiculously unreasonable. For example, they may have a worthless balance transfer offer with amount limited to a level of say £500. Or there could be store cards through which you can shop only at a particular shop and that too only from a particular catalogue.

These credit card offers are responsible for maximum credit card frauds or losses to customers due to unprecedented high costs. These are mostly wipe, pack and vanish firms, i.e. companies that wipe off your resources, pack their business and simply vanish leaving a big hole in your pocket.

We all receive those flowery once in lifetime offers claiming to change the course of life with all the financial gains we can get through them. Remember they are out there for business. They are not going to pay out of their pockets so obviously they cannot live up to their tall claims. Think wise and smart. It is good to invest in small time lesser-known ventures but at the same time it is better to be safe. After all prevention is better than cure.

Joseph Kenny is the webmaster of the UK credit card comparison site www.creditcards121.com/, where you can find a selection of adverse credit history credit cards. For US visitors there is also the comparison site www.credit-cards-info.com/ for all US interest free offers.

At one time or another most all of us apply for and get more credit cards than we need. We feel like we have to be able to purchase almost any type of item at anytime, whether we can really afford it or not. Having several credit cards allows one to buy products and services at will. Is that a good thing or bad?

There are many companies offering credit cards and loans online, but all may not fit everyone’s needs. A credit card is a great financial tool that needs to be used wisely and cautiously. Never allow yourself to get so far behind on your creditcard balance totals that you can only afford to pay the minimum payment amount or small amounts each month towards the reduction of your debt. That is the interest rate trap. Once your cornered on paying minimum amounts, you will most likely be stuck there for years if not for a lifetime.

However, having credit cards can be a positive, productive personal finance tool and does not have to be a negative to your credit status or your lifestyle. A couple of key points:

• Convenient to use and carry
• Offers valuable consumer protections
• Use it with caution and good judgement
• Pay off your monthly bill in full each month,
• which eliminates interest charges

Having credit cards is a priviledge and huge personal responsibility. You must utilize and manage your credit rating wisely and carefully at all times. The saying ‘ if you can’t afford to pay cash, then you can’t afford it ‘ is a true statement and we should all take heed to its warning. Using creditcards in this manner makes them your friend and not your foe. Having credit cards in your name is not bad just take care not to go into debt for more than can repay. Doing so will only serve to damage your credit rating and it can and will create larger credit problems for yourself into the future that may be difficult or impossible to repair.

When shopping for a new credit card, comparison shopping is important, because it can save you money. Be sure to consider all of the costs and terms of each of the credit offers. These can make a real difference in how much in fees and interest charges you will possibly be paying each month. Be sure to compare these costs with any of your existing financial instruments, cards, loans, mortgages, etc. You may be able to replace some of your current debt with less expensive options. Some of the costs and terms to consider are the annual percentage rate (APR) for goods and services as well as for any cash advances you may request, the annual fee, and the grace period. Also compare other fees, late-payment charges, and over-the-limit spending fees.

Greg Smith publishes timely information on Credit Card issues. For more information please visit: www.apply-credit-cards.com/ .
This article may be freely reprinted as long as the author’s resource box and URL links remain intact.

Credit card companies, as part of the financial industry, use a massive array of jargon. If you understand the terms you can stay on top of your credit card debt. While you can’t be expected to recognize all the technical terms, some of them are quite important so here is a quick guide, in alphabetical order.

Affinity card
This is a credit card that gives a certain amount to a charity of your choice, depending on how much you spend. It is generally best to avoid any charity that wants you to sign up for such a card and don’t let guilt lead you to a high interest rate.

APR
Annual Percentage Rate. This is your overall interest rate, calculated yearly, and given as a percentage of your credit card debt balance.

ATM
Automated Teller Machine. A cash machine. It will give you money when you put your credit card in, but will probably charge an extra fee.

Balance transfer
This is when you transfer your balance from one credit card to another. The usual reason for this is to try and keep as much credit card debt as possible on a lower-interest card.

Credit limit
Your credit limit is the maximum amount you can spend or withdraw from your card. Going over your credit limit will result in your card no longer being accepted and you being charged an over-limit fee.

Fixed rate
A fixed rate card is one where you are given a rate when you sign up for the card and that rate, at least in theory, stays the same for the whole time you have the card. In practice, though, interest rates can be changed for almost any reason.

Grace period
Your grace period is the amount of time between when you spend money and when you start paying interest on it. Good cards can have a grace period of up to two months and bad ones might not have one at all.

Minimum payment
A minimum payment is the absolute lowest amount you can pay back to the credit card company each month on your credit card debt. You should pay more, but you don’t have to. Minimum payments are usually around 2% of your balance.

Sub-prime
This is a phrase used in the industry to describe customers who are a bad credit risk, but are seen as worth lending to anyway. If you are identified as sub-prime, you’ll start getting offers for loans secured on your property. They know that if you can’t pay your credit card debt they’ll get their money anyway.

Teaser rate
A special offer low rate, usually written in enormous letters. You will see many offers with “LOW 4.9% APR” in inch-high letters, followed by “for first six months, 21.9% thereafter” in microscopic ones. Teaser offers can sometimes be worth taking, but not if they tie you in for longer than the period of the offer.

Variable rate
This is an interest rate that is worked out by adding a certain amount to the current base rate. Taking this option will allow your credit card debt to be affected by changes in national interest rates. Its a good idea if you think rates might go down, and a bad one if they are on the way up.

The more informed you are the better control you will have over your credit and you credit card debt. To find out more about hidden fees, charges and costs buried deep in your credit card agreement and shift the financial powere from the credit card companies to you.

Jay Jackson writes and lectures extensively on eliminating personal credit card debt and getting your paycheck and life back. His resources, articles and information are on his website.
www.bustcreditcarddebt.com

I have been a huge fan of extreme macro photography for quite some time now. While experimenting with a lot of different equipment, and many different theories, I learned a lot about macro photography, and what it takes to assemble a high quality system, while on a budget. There several components to a macro setup to discuss, and I will focus on the lens, and the equipment needed to attach it to the camera body, and turn it into a macro lens, whether it was intentionally built to be a macro or not.

I have seen a lot of beautiful Fine Arts Prints of Macro subjects shot with fairly inexpensive setups. First of all, please understand that currently most cameras are automatic, in their focus, metering etc. Of course, this was not the case 20 or 30 years ago, when a lot of macro technology was being developed. This being said, I want to make sure that you understand that this setup will be a manual setup. However, it will work well with either a film or a digital SLR camera.

Modern cameras have been getting smaller, and more automated; however, for macro photography, smaller size, and automation are not necessarily an advantage. There are some really great macro lenses available for modern SLRs from all big vendors. However, their prices are commonly over $500. If you add the cost of artificial lighting, you are looking at paying around a grand. Our goal here is a quality yet low cost alternative, so let’s get to it.

The first thing that a good macro setup needs is something which all modern film and digital SLRs lack. What could they all possibly lack? An adjustable distance between the lens, and the film plane, or a digital sensor. Macro is about getting very close to the subject and magnifying it to its original size, or preferably larger. Having the ability to extend the lens away from the camera allows the camera to achieve focus at a much shorter distance, than if the lens was fixed to the camera.

So here’s what we need to get the lens broken away from the camera. Many people have heard of, or seen a bellows, which is nothing more than an accordion made out of some type of a synthetic material, painted black, with a lens mount on one end, and a camera mount on the other. The accordion is fixed on its horizontal plane, and the rail to which it is fixed allows it to extend and contract on that fixed plane. This device has the camera attached to it, and allows the end with the lens attached to be moved closer or further away from the camera’s film/digital plane. This makes for an excellent start. The Macro bellows such as this is commonly sold by specialty camera stores, and many stores online. A search on eBay will lend you one for under $100. Look for a bellows with a correct mount for your camera, and an M42 mount on the lens end. I know you are asking yourself right now, why not the correct mount for my lenses? You are more than likely shooting with an automatic film, or a digital SLR, and this will be a manual setup, and your lenses do not allow manual aperture setting. This means that you will not have any depth control, because your lenses will be at their widest opening. Depth of Field is essential in Macro photography. It is a must.

At his point we have a bellows but we need a lens. I will discuss getting a good lens in detail in another article, but to summarize, any normal to telephoto lens with an M42 mount will complete this kit. A lens which was designed to be macro is best, but a plain normal 50-80mm lens will work. Just remember, the lens should have aperture control, and manual focus, which will help you precisely adjust your composition, and will let you control depth of field. Older lenses from manufacturers like Carl Zeiss, or Pentax are of excellent mechanical and optical quality, despite their age. Once again, eBay is a good place to pick one up. Do not expect to pay any more than appx. $150.

So, for under $300 is it possible to have a better setup than a $500 macro lens. Yes, your results will be better with this setup, than with even the most expensive automatic macro lenses. Give this a try, and stay tuned for more articles on the subject of Macro Photography.

Owner of a small photography marketing company. If interested in learning more about me, visit http://www.worldonpaper.com.

There has always been a debate about what is better. Traditional cameras using film, or the so called new technology, storing pictures in digital form on memory cards, in computers or on CD-Rom.

As being a photographer for more than half of my life, I stuck with traditional film for very long. About 7 years ago I started to supplement my work with photos taken the digital way. A point and shoot camera with just 640×480 pixel resolution was the most attractive gadget I had these days. Its lens was even capable of doing close-up work, using a macro switch.

That Fujifilm DX-7 was upgraded with a bigger Memory-Card and the camera served me well for several years.

Anyway, over time, I was still more satisfied with the possibilities my collection of Pentax SLR cameras gave me. It started with using the best lenses for each picture or just using a Zoom (which offers a range from wide angle to telephoto), changing the shutter speed to either stop or blur the motion of objects in the picture, use external flashlights, change the aperture openings to adjust the range of sharpness and lots more. Not forgetting the better picture quality I could get from a 35mm negative or slide. I was happy to use my heavy, solid metal camera.

The world changed for me when camera makers like Nikon and Canon introduced their Digital SLR Cameras. I went to my local camera shop every week and debated with the salesman about advantages and disadvantages of the models they had on sale. Also I checked with lots of users in online services to get first hand feedback on how these cameras performed. Finally, when Pentax introduced their Digital SLRs, I couldn’t wait much longer. I needed to have one of those.

With the Pentax 1st DS have a whole list of advantages over smaller Digital Cameras:

I can use the same lenses that fit my traditional camera

Have full control over speed and aperture

I can see the picture immediately after it is taken

I can shoot a series of pictures and choose the best (at no extra cost for film or paper)

A good resolution of 6 Megapixel which allows quite big prints

It weights more than a compact digital camera, so you can hold it steady more easily

Make use of all the filters, flashlights, lenses and accessories I have collected over the years.

Storing the pictures on the PC via a fast USB connection

Up to 1 GB storage on a SD Memory Card (about 380 jpg photos)

Selecting only the best photos for printing

With all these advantages of digital SLR Cameras, you may wonder why I still keep my old 35mm film cameras with me. First, it is emotional, and second, photographing the old fashioned way keeps me calm. You just need more time to produce an excellent, satisfying photograph (because you cannot see the result right after the shot).

Article © 2006 http://www.digitalcameratips.de
Tom has spent most of his free time behind cameras of different types. He specializes in close-up work and travel photography. To share his experiences and fascination about digital photography, he has set up http://www.digitalcameratips.de which covers topics for beginners as well as advanced users of digital cameras.